Definitely one of the things I love most about India are the palace and heritage hotels that have sprung up all over the country. Some are charming and quirky, some are magnificent, but they all transport you back to some (OK, probably mythical) romantic past. Yes, some of them will cost the earth to spend the night, but many of my favorites fall in the USD 75.00 range – not bad for a night of being a maharani.

For a fairly complete but un-opinionated listing, go to www.indiaheritagehotels.com

I have listed only a few – the ones I know I like – of the hundreds that are out there. I’m sure there are hundreds more that I would love if I could just get there. Check with your tour operator for more that I don’t know about, but also, to be sure the one I have listed are still good. All too often, I have seen a great place fall on the rocks when a manager leaves. Ah! I remember, fondly, the time I walked into one of India’s most famous, ultra 5 star hotels, and found pigeons roosting in the ceiling fans in the lobby, leaving their droppings all over the furniture!

Delhi

Oberoi Maidens – Very nice stately old Raj hotel. If you want to stay in Old Delhi, this is a great option. www.maidenshotel.com

Imperial – An ideal location right on Janpath is just the beginning. The Imperial was originally built during the era of Lytens, and a major face-lift that has left it very elegant and full of old world character. The rack rates are very high, but if you are off-season, your tour operator might be able to negotiate a discount. www.theimperialindia.com

Claridges – Art deco style. Good location in south Delhi, not too gar from the Lodhi Gardens www.claridges.com

Devna – 10 Sundar Nagar. Great location, near some snack shops and stores. A turn of the century house full of memorabilia. With just 4 rooms, however, book early. www.devnadelhi.com

Rajasthan North: Bikaner and Shekhawati

Gajner Palace Hotel (near Bikaner) An old Maharaha’s hunting lodge in a wildlife sanctuary just 30 minutes from Bikaner. www.hrhhotels.com

Laxmi Niwas Palace (Bikaner) Probably the most grand of the Bikaner heritage hotels, it’s just outside the city, www.laxminiwaspalace.com

Bhanwar Niwas (Bikaner) Beautiful old haveli in the center of town. Great service and caring hosts. www.bhanwarniwas.com

Hotel Kishan Palace (Bikaner) A simple and more modern haveli, this is a great place to stay at a good price. (no website, but TripAdvisor has them)

Hotel Jaswant Bhawan (Bikaner) if you are looking for an inexpensive old-fashioned hotel within walking distance of the train station, this could be it. www.hoteljaswantbhawan.com

Hotel Castle Mandawa (Mandawa) Huge battle scared old castle/fortress set in the middle of desert and steeped in legendary Rajput tradition. This was a working fort, complete with canon, turrets, and massive carved doors. It is still owned by the royal family and many of their family heirlooms make up the décor. It is a good resting place if you are visiting the Shekhawati region. www.castlemandawa.com

Hotel Vivaana (Churi Ajitgarh) Easily my favorite hotel in Shekhawati, this old haveli has been restored perfectly – not too much, not too little. You probably won’t find Churi Ajitgarh on a map, but it’s 10 km east of Mandawa and perfectly placed to stay while you explore this area. www.vivaana.com

Rajasthan East: Jaipur, Ranthambhore, Alwar, Bundi, Alwar

Hotel Jamuna Resort (Jhunjhunu, Shekhawati). Beautifully painted rooms evoke the old color and flash of the Shekhawati traditions. http://www.hoteljamunaresort.in/index.htm

Dera Dundlod Kila (Dundlod, Shekhawati) This is a gorgeous haveli, definitely worth visiting, but I don’t know about staying there. In the few times that I’ve stopped by, there has been no one around to even bring a cup of tea, so I have never seen the rooms.

http://www.heritagehotelsofindia.com/rajasthan/dundlod-fort.html

Neemrana Fort Palace Hotel (Alwar) Spectacular fort, cascading down a hill side. It’s on the road between Delhi and Jaipur and makes a wonderful overnight stop. For a while, they were being pesky about people just dropping by for lunch, but talk to your tour operator. www.fort-palace.neemranahotels.com

Rambagh Palace Hotel (Jaipur) Enormous, elegant, and stately residence of the Maharaja Sawai Man Singh of Jaipur. This is one of the oldest and most famous of the Rajasthani palace hotels. It has huge gardens, a very lovely indoor pool and a famous art deco bar. www.tajhotels.com

Raj Palace (Jaipur) An exquisite jewel of a hotel. It is part of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World and will make even the most jaded traveler swoon. It has a pool, a spa, and all the rest of the amenities you would expect. www.rajpalace.com

Jai Mahal Palace (Jaipur) Majestic 18^th C. palace that drips in luxury. The regular rooms are modern, with hints of Indian architecture. It has an outdoor pool and a spa. www.tajhotels.com

Narian Niwas Palace (Jaipur) Smaller, less elaborate – and much less expensive – that the previous 3, this charming hotel still evokes ( OK, a little worn) Rajput grandeur. They have a pool and an abundance of antiques. It was one of the first palace hotels in Jaipur and has kept a huge repeat clientele.

www.hotelnarainniwas.com

Diggi Palace (Jaipur) This very traditional small palace is still the home of the Diggi royalty. It’s beautiful, and full of Rajput character. www.hoteldiggipalace.com

Alsisar Haveli (Jaipur) Bright and airy, accommodations in a very regal building. They have dining in the garden and they have a pool. www.alsisarhaveli.com

Shahpura House (Jaipur) Beautiful palace with some of the best wall murals to be seen in a small hotel. The balcony rooms are especially nice. www.shahpura.com

Samode Haveli (Jaipur) I was at this hotel the month it opened, and have watched it metamorphose from a cute, simple little place to a stunning oasis of calm and beauty. Still one of my favorites. www.samode.com And, when you’re done in Jaipur, they will arrange a car for you to the…

Samode Palace Hotel (Samode) In a smallish traditional village about an hour out of Jaipur, this is a awesome addition to any itinerary. Samode village – although growing – is still quaint and traditional. The hotel has evening camel rides to show you around, and there nice short hikes up into the hills. The whole hotel is wonderful and if you are thinking of one splash-out room night (or 2) you might want to take a look at the Maharaja Suite here.

www.samode.com

Rajasthan Central and West: Jodhpur, Jaisalmer, Nagaur, Pushkar, Rohet

Ranvas Nagaur (Nagaur) A different sort of experience because this palace is massive cut rock and stone, not pretty little arches. It is very dramatic and the creature comforts – including a pool – are all there. The Nagaur Fort (2 hours N.E. from Jodhpur) is magnificent. The Getty Foundation has been restoring it’s original mighty and majestic glory. In my opinion, the February cattle fair was kind of a bust, but the Sufi Music Festival – also in Feb – was sublime. www.ranvasnagaur.com

The Khimsar Fort – About and hour N.E. of Jodhpur, this fort-hotel has camel rides in the dunes. It’s a great place for a desert retreat. www.kimsar.com

Kuchaman Fort Hotel – Out in the middle of nowhere, between Bikaner and Jaisalmer, this fortress hotel sits on top a hill, guarding the passes. To me, this place did a remarkable job of evoking the warrior Rajput past. A mighty fortress with delicate women’s rooms, covered in exquisite painting. It’s been partially restored, so there’s still some romantic ruins strewn around. www.kuchamanfort.com

Rajasthan South: Udaipur, Chittorgarh, Abu, Dungapur

PALACE HOTELS IN RAJASTHAN (SOUTH): UDAIPUR, CHITTORGARH, ABU, DUNGAPUR

Padmini Haveli (Chittor)– This is the only hotel located inside the walls of the Chittor Fort. Nice building, great owners, simple rooms, fabulous location. www.thepadminihaveli.com

Hotel Castle Bijaipur – About a 3 hour drive N.E. of Udaipur, on the way to Kota, this great 16^th C. castle stands watch over the surrounding countryside. The owners still live there are take great care of their guests. www.castlebijaipur.co.in

The Lake Palace Hotel – (Udaipur) Udaipur’s most famous digs. It is quite magical and it’s the only place like it in the world, so in spite of the iffy service (at least when I was last there), you may want to go for it. At least the last time I was there, they weren’t allowing people to come over for a visit. Check with your tour operator, but you may have to stay here to see it. Be aware that the standard rooms are pretty cookie-cutter. The suites, on the other hand, are magnificent. www.tajhotels.com

Shiv Niwas Palace Hotel – (Udaipur) On the banks of Pichola Lake, overlooking the Lake Palace. The regular rooms are kind of plain, but the suites are very nice. The service and the ambiance are great – the staff really went out of their way when I was there. www.hrhhotels.com

Jagat Niwas Palace Hotel – (Udaipur) Less flashy and expensive than the previous two, this darling little hotel sits right on the lake. It was once a haveli, so it’s charming, not ostentatious. Be sure to request a lake view room, and if you have trouble with stairs, tell them that. Bear in mind that one of the best things about it is the rooftop restaurant, and that it is up a lot of stairs. www.jagatcollection.com

Kankarwa Haveli – (Udaipur) This darling place and the Jagat Niwas were once the same haveli so the owners are always vying to outdo each other. It’s also very cute and all the recommendations about stairs and lake views apply here as well.

Rang Niwas Palace – (Udaipur) This charming little 200 year old haveli is on the main road into town so it doesn’t have lake views. Only part of it can be considered “heritage” – much of it has been added on. I’m including it because the owner, Maharaj Arjun Singh got my personal “Citizen of the Year” award for his efforts to support the poor and indigent of Udaipur. Support him if you don’t need a lake view – and have a great stay! www.rangniwaspalace.com

Udai Bilas Palace – (Dungapur) This is a mid 19^th century building so the architecture is a little less dramatic. It’s about 80 very slow km south of Udaipur, but I was so glad I had made the effort. It’s surrounded by a “seasonal” lake which attracts lots of birds and wildlife. The clincher for me, however, was the excursion to the “Old Palace” – the Juna Mahal – in town. Certainly the most beautifully painted walls I have seen anywhere in Rajasthan. www.udaibilaspalace.com

Raas Devigarh – (Devigarh) About 60km from Udaipur, this is a stunning, white, boutique castle-hotel that rises up from the countryside. Minimalist Rajput décor keeps things peaceful and clean, and it has all the amenities (love the pool!) that you would want. Fabulous service and lots of “wow” factor. www.raasdevigarh.com

Ghanero Royal Castle – (Ranakpur) This is only about 20 km from Ranakpur, so it would make a good place to break the drive to Jodhpur. Very nice building with simple Rajput furnishings. www.ghanerao.com

Deogarh Mahal – about 120 km N.E. of Udaipur, on the road to Ajmer and Jaipur, this beautiful hotel still is home to the Mewari royalty that built it. If you are driving from Jaipur, it would make an ideal stop-over. www.deogarhmahal.com

Bihar

Bodhgaya – If you are looking for character, consider staying at one of the monasteries that offer accommodations. The Bhutanese Monastery is one of the most comfortable. The Gelugpa, Kagyupa, and Nyingmapa Monasteries all welcome guests, but the Nyingmapa Monastery has share bathrooms only.

Gujerat

House of MG (Ahmedabad a.k.a. Amdavad) Wow! Like beautiful traditional art? This is your place. A fabulously restored merchant’s home in the heart of the city with all the upscale conveniences. Great food. http://www.houseofmg.com

Nilambagh Palace (Bhavnagar) Simple period furnishings in a very nice building. They also have a fitness center. http://nilambagpalace.com

Palace Beach Resort (Chorwad) This place takes a lot of imagination to return it to its former glory, but it is nicely located right on the (so-so) beach. www.amarbharat.com/beach/chowrad-beach

Aram – (Jamnagar) The building is wonderful, but perhaps the interior has been a bit too spruced up. But, it’s very comfortable, complete with a gym. http://hotelaram.com/

Hariyana and Punjab

Ranjit Svaasa (Amritsar) A charming and ulta-comfortable old mansion with owner/hosts that are there to be sure you have an enjoyable stay. www.svaasa.com

Budgerigar Motel/Yadavindra Motel (Pinjore) A little Mogul country retreat house attached to the Yaduvindra Mogul Gardens. Wouldn’t go out of my way, but if you have to spend the night in Chandigarh anyway – and you don’t need upscale – this place is fun. No website

Himachal Pradesh

Silverton Estate (Dalhousie) Great location, kind of funky furnishings that could use a bit of updating. But, it’s a very pleasant retreat. /www.heritagehotels.com/silverton

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Grand View, (Dalhousie) This is a nice 1920’s era building, but the rooms are modern and rather commercial feeling. Great views, however. www.grandviewdalhousie

Cloud’s End Villa, (Between Dharamsala and Ganchen) – The current residence of the Maharaja of kangra. A charming colonial style hunting lodge with great atmosphere. www.kangragroup.com/cloudsendvilla

John Bannon’s, (Manali) – Built by an Irishman during the Raj era, this hotel consists of a main 2 story building with some adjacent cottages. Homey and peaceful, with lots of wood. www.banonresortmanali.com

Sunshine Guest House, (Manali) Built by the British as a hot weather get-a-way, this charming wood 2 story hotel has lots of colonial atmosphere. Many of the rooms have fireplaces. www.thesunshineheritage.com

Johnson Hotel and Café (Manali) The family home of Jimmy Johnson, built in 1900. The setting is beautiful and peaceful, and the staff is very attentive. The furnishings are a bit sparse and characterless, but tastefully done. There are several independent cottages for families. www.johnsonhotel.in

Naggar Castle Hotel, (Naggar) – Creaky, wild, and full of ghosts. This old palace, built in traditional Himalayan rock and beam style of architecture has spectacular mountain views and plenty of character. The Nicholas Roerich museum is a short walk away. No website, but Tripadvisor has it.

Nalagarh Fort, (Nalagarh) – This 18^th century fort is 60 km from Chandigarh and definitely worth the effort. If you are driving from Delhi to the Kulu Valley, it’s an ideal place to spend the night. www.nalagarh.in

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Taragarh Palace, (Palampur, Kangra Valley) Actually, it’s 5 km. east of Palampur. Built as a summer retreat by the royal family of Bhawalpur, this gorgeous hotel is full of beautiful antiques and has all the modern amenities as well. www.taragarh.com

Judges Court, (Pragpur,Kangra Valley) Magnificent building surrounded by an orchard and farmlands. Fabulous views definitely make it a delight. www.judgescourt.com

The Cecil Oberoi, Shimla – This absolutely beautiful wooden Tudor style hotel is on the west side of The Mall. It’s been pretty modernized but still has touches of old and elegant. It definitely has the best of Oberoi’s gracious service. The hotel spills down the side of the hill with stunning mountain vistas. From the dramatic atrium entryway to the traditionally furnished restaurant, the hotel evokes Raj era elegance. www.oberoihotels.com

Chapslee, (Shimla) Small – 6 rooms – but stunningly gorgeous, this hotel has won the 2016 World Luxury Hotel Award for Asia. Built by a British surgeon in the 1830s, it is now owned and operated by the Maharaja of Kapurthala who the most welcoming host. www.chapslee.com

Woodville Palace, (Shimla) Straight out of “The Jewel in the Crown”, this gorgeous hotel is also set in the middle of very nice gardens. www.woodvillepalace.com

Telangana and Andhra Pradesh

Taj Fulakaknuma (Hyderabad) The most grand of all the palaces built by the Nizams of is now a sumptuous hotel. It’s European style grandeur – white with marble, teak, and Edwardian antiques. Not a lot of Indian character, but truly magnificent. www.tajhotels.com

Karnataka

Taj West End, (Bangalore) – A luxurious hotel set amid fabulous gardens in a city famous for its gardens. This hotel is a collection of little villas and traditional style mansions dating back to 1887 when it was built as a British officer’s club. It has been beautifully restored, somewhat added on to, and remains very impressive. All the rooms have balconies which look out onto the gardens. The regular rooms have modern furniture, but the deluxe rooms have elegant period furniture. www.tajhotels.com

Lalitha Palace, (Mysore) – This 1916 magnificent white palace was originally built to house the guests of the Maharaja of Mysore. The Maharaja of Mysore had an insatiable appetite for European and Indian art, much of which is still on display. This palace has been faithfully restored to its former glory, even down to the color of the paint. www.lalithmahalpalace.in

Madhya Pradesh

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Hotel Sheesh Mahal, (Orchha) – located within the walls of the majestic fort, this beautiful hotel will definitely send you back to the romantic princely era. It is full of personality and is lost in time. Good place to splash out for a suite. No website.

Usha Kiran Palace, (Gwalior) Very well run by Taj Hotels, this hotel, as well as Gwalior, are well worth a visit. The architecture is of the more modern, austere classical style, and the comfortable rooms are beautifully appointed with period furniture. www.tajhotels.com

Uttar Pradesh and Uttaranchal

Deodar Holiday Inn, (Almora) – Swami Vivekananda spent about 8 years here in the late 19^th C. A small, remote, tranquil stone cottage with fireplaces and nice views. No website, but Tripadvisor has them.

Hotel Kasmanda Palace, (Mussoorie) – Immaculately restored palace of the Kasmanda royal family, who occasionally still come to stay. It is set on the hill above Mussoorie with spectacular views. The rooms are huge and elegantly furnished with the best of authentic period pieces. www.kasmandapalace.com

Savoy Hotel, (Mussoorie) – At one time, this must have been one of the most magnificent British hotels in the hills. It is constructed almost entirely of wood with a tin roof, turrets, stained glass, and a fireplace in every room – all kinds of Gothic appointments. I haven’t stayed there since ITC took it over and fixed it up, but even in its dilapidated state many years ago, it was one of my favorites. www.fortunehotels.in/mussoorie

Carlton Plaisence, (Mussoorie)- Once the hill home of the Maharaja of Lucknow, this charming hotel is about a ten minute rickshaw ride out of Mussoorie, so it’s best for people with their own transportation. The regular rooms are a bit dark, but the upstairs suites have fireplaces and mountain views. Nice period furniture, a great drawing room, and family style dining. www.carltonplaisance.com

The Grand, (Nainital) Old grand wood structure, right on the lake. Rooms could use some spiffing up (Check the web-site to see if you’ll be happy there) but the location is ideal and the price means you can stay a while. http://thegrandnainital.com

Palace Belvedere,(Nainital) The old mansion of the Raja of Awagarh has been lovingly restored. Vey nice period décor and lake views. www.thepalacebelvedere.com

West Bengal

Fairlawn, Calcutta – Nostalgia and kitsch central in this exceedingly eccentric old 2 story wood structure. Not a speck of wall space peeps out from behind the masses of pictures and not an inch of tabletop is left unadorned. It’s usually full of interesting people. Make sure you like the color green if you are going to stay here. www.fairlawnhotel.com

Tollygunge Club, (Calcutta) – The furnishings could use some updating, but plenty of Raj atmosphere remains. The Tolly Country Club and Golf Course is still the “in” address in Calcutta and you will be immediately swept up into modern Calcutta society. www.tollygungeclub.org

Oberoi Grand, (Calcutta) – And, grand it is! Easily one of India’s best hotels. However, many makeovers have left it a bit bereft of “old” atmosphere. www.oberoihotels.com

Cochrane Place, (Kurseong) – On the way up the hill to Darjeeling, this charming old tea estate house has been converted to a guesthouse. Lots of atmosphere and attentive hosts.. www.cochraneplacehotel.com

Windamere, (Darjeeling) – Very famous, and once beautiful hotel. It’s now a bit neglected and resting on its laurels, but so full of atmosphere you almost don’t notice. Hope Cook met the Choygal of Sikkim here, and the drawing room is full of magical old photo albums. The attempts at British cuisine are just that, and unfortunately the rooms can only be booked with full board only. Great location close to the Mall. www.windermerehotel.com

New Elgin, (Darjeeling) – Currently, this is probably the best bet in Darjeeling for Raj atmosphere. They have just completed a massive refurbishment which is a grand success. There is a nice garden with tables for your meals if you chose not to eat in the dining room. The views are not of Khanchenjunga, however, rather of the hills to the west. www.elginhotels.com

Cedar Inn, (Darjeeling)– Beautifully restored Gothic style colonial hotel with fab views of Kanchenjunga. The rooms are simple but very comfortable and the food is yummy. Only down side, for me, was the 30 min walk into town. www.cedarinndarjeeling.com

Central Hotel, (Darjeeling) – One of the most centrally located old hotels. The rooms are huge with lots of wood and coal fireplaces and the furnishings are very nice. The dining room will has spectacular Khanchenjunga views. Excellent food. www.centralhotels.in

Mayfair Hotel, (Darjeeling) – This hotel incorporates an old manor house, but very little remains of anything old. The architecture is beautiful, however, and the hotel is full of wonderful Indian art. Good location, right off the Mall. http://www.mayfairhotels.com/mayfair-darjeeling

Himalayan,(Kalimpong) Two story old lodge, built as a retreat for British officials, and loaded with atmosphere. Lots of wood and antiques. There is a new annex, so you might want to ask for a room in the original building. No website, but Tripadvisor has them.

Silver Oaks (Kalimpong) Very nice Raj-era hotel with the usual top-notch Elgin Hotel chain service and care. www.elginhotels.com

Sikkim

Norkhill Hotel, (Gangtok) – Originally the guest house of the Choygal of Sikkim, and still the most deluxe hotel in Gangtok. Beautiful traditional Tibetan style décor and a nice outdoor eating area with views of Khanchenjunga. An Elgin hotel. www.elginhotel.com

Elgin Mount Pandim (Pelling) A beautifully restored residence of the Sikkimese royal family, this hotel is about a 20 minute walk from the Pemayangtse Monastery. Arguably the best views of Mt Kanchengunja, all while sitting out on their lawn sipping tea. Heaven! www.elginhotels.com

Odisha

Chanakya BLR, (Puri) – Even the flatware and china tell tales of when the Calcutta Sahibs came here to vacation. The building is huge and cavernous, and full of ghosts. www.chanakyablrputi.com

Maharashtra

Lord’s Central Hotel, (Matheran) The magical 2 hour “toy” train ride up to this hill station, 170 km. east of Mumbai, is just the beginning. This charming little Raj hotel, made up of cottages with balconies and fabulous views, is a perfect get-away. Best visited between mid-September and mid-June, but beware of the crowds during the hot months of April – June. No website, but Tripadvisor has them.

The Taj Mahal (Mumbai) The mother-lode of Indian hotel history, this place has been welcoming movie stars, maharajas and presidents for over a hundred years. History buffs should ask fro rooms in the old palace section, but the best views are from the tower rooms. www.tajhotels.com

Tamil Nadu

Indeco Swamimalai, Kumbakonam – The owner bought an abandoned village and restored it to fabulous. It’s part hotel, part museum and he delights in showing people around. The main building – which has 4 rooms – it a wonderful heritage merchant’s home brought in from Chennai. Be careful not to get put in the new annex, but all the heritage rooms are wonderful.

Carlton, Kodiakanal – A large Raj era house, on the lake, delightfully furnished with period furniture. www.krahejahospitality.com

The Gateway Madurai – It could use a little sprucing up, especially the regular rooms, but the setting – on top a hill, overlooking town – is very nice. Ask for an upgraded room with a view if you stay here. www.tajhotels.com

The Madurai Heritage Hotel, Madurai – This used to be a raj era officer’s club and has been restored to gorgeous. It’s spread out over 17 acres of gardens with a sparkling large pool. Some of the top level suites have their own plunge pools. Great service, yummy food, lots of ambiance www.heritagemadurai.com

Regency Villa at Fernhill, (Ooty) This is billed as a budget hotel so make sure you show up with your rose colored glasses. If you do, it’s charming. It’s a series of low rambling cottages, spread out over a large area. All very British white picket fence style. At the time I was there, the best rooms were suites in the main building. www.welcomeheritagehotels.in

YWCA (sometimes called Anandagiri), Ooty – For a “Y”, this is a real find. A 1920’s building and all rooms have a bath – usually with hot water. No website, but Tripadvisor has them.

Taj Savoy, Ooty – From the outside, this low rise, 1850s, building is really cute. However, It’s been modernized to within an inch of its life do doesn’t have much historical interest left. At least they kept most of the fire places. www.tajhotels.com

Goa

Siolim House, Sialom. This gorgeous 300 year old Portuguese Governor’s mansion is one of the great success stories in architectural restoration. It is small (just 7 rooms) intimate, charming, and homey. It is in town, not at the beach. http://www.siolimhouse.com

Panjim Inn. Panjim This cute little converted mansion is also downtown. It is a bit more funky and old feeling than the Siolim house, and very worthwhile. Nice verandah restaurant and courtyard. http://www.panjiminn.com/panjim-inn.htm

Marbella, North Goa A beautiful old Portuguese villa with gardens, patios, fountains and plenty of antiques. If you don’t mind being a 10 minute walk (uphill on the way back) from the beach, this is a great choice. http://www.marbellagoa.com/\

Kerala

Bolgatty Palace, (Kochi) – Built by the Dutch in the 1740’s, this grand mansion is right on the water. It has just been taken over by Kerala Tourism and given a major face-lift. www.bolgattypalacekochi.com

Malabar House Residency, (Kochi) – Modern melds with colonial in this delightful and elegant old house which was once the home of a wealthy merchant. Located in the historic area of town, it is set amidst beautiful gardens. www.malabarhouse.com

Coconut Lagoon Resort, (Kumarakum) – Once a coconut plantation, this idyllic hotel made up of bungalows, restored to their original luxury and set amongst canals. Each unit has a private courtyard, wonderful south Indian art and an open air bath. www.cghearth.com

Serenity Kanam Guesthouse (Manimala) Grand old 1920 mansion in a rubber plantation. Lots of ambiance, great art, and a gentle elephant who will love to give you a ride. This hotel IS the destination – there’s not anything nearby, but it’s a great quiet get away. No website, but booking.com has them.