Forts and Palaces of Rajasthan

Day 1: Fly to Udaipur

Never entirely conquered by either the Moguls or the British, this traditional region is the essence of Hindu princely India. Brilliantly colored reds and yellows of saris and turbans are a delightful contrast to the brown hills and the people here are open and friendly. Cows, camels, and bullock carts are nearly as commonplace as cars in the streets and the occasional elephant lumbers by for added effect.

You might want to visit Udaipur’s most famous gardens, the Saheliyon-ki-Bari “Gardens of the Maids of Honor”, built in the 18th century this was the location for many harem parties. The carved stone animals around the pool are charming, and we can get feel for what purdah life was like in the Rajput courts.

The Royal House of Mewar, as the Udaipur rulers were once known, was the foremost clan of the original 4 great states of Rajasthan. Claiming descent from Surya, the ancient Vedic Sun God, the Sisodia dynasty ruled for 12 centuries. Needless to say, their palace here is one of the most lavish in India. Room after room of inlayed mirrors and colored glass, murals of nymphs and dancing girls, and sumptuous furniture bear testimony to the indulgent peacetime lifestyle of these erstwhile warriors. Wander around and then perhaps relax by the side of the lake to watch the sun go down

Day 2: Udaipur

This delightful and picturesque town is best explored on foot. There are scores of beautiful small temples, both in town and around the lake and most of the people delight in showing interested foreigners their puja ceremonies. The bazaar area is full of local handicrafts and this is one of the best places in Rajasthan to have instant clothes made. Udaipur is also famous as India’s center for miniature paintings and small shops all over town display beautiful examples of the various styles. There is a very famous ayurvedic center here, the Madan Mohan College, and visitors are welcome.

For anyone particularly interested in forts, you could take an aprox 6 hour trip out to the legendary Chittor Fort, original home of the Mewar clan. Left wounded and partially destroyed by some of India’s most epic battles with the Moguls, this huge city-fortress, more than any other in Rajasthan, attests to the valor and heroism of the Rajputs.

The Eklingji temples, about 20 km. north of Udaipur in the village of Kailashpuri, would also be possible side trip. This collection of 16th century temples are dedicated to Lord Shiva, and his elegant black marble four-faced stature is the focalpoint of the main sanctuary.

Another possibility for this day is an excursion to the town of Nathdwara, home of the traditional religious cloth paintings known as “pichwais”. This vibrant style of devotional painting was developed by a sect of Krishna devotees who, with a little divine intervention, settled here in the 16th century.

This evening, think about a sunset cruise around the lake, stopping at Jagmandir Island to see the palace there which has been restored.

Day 3: Drive to Luni

The drive from Udaipur to Luni is about 5 hours, and is one of the nicest drives in Rajasthan. Small lakes, craggy hills and little farming villages are home to gentle people whose way of life has changed little in thousands of years. Irrigation is still done with the help of the Persian Wheel and bullocks still till the fields.

Our first stop along the way is at Ranakpur, one of the five holy Jain sites. Some say this site, set in a verdant valley, is the most beautiful Jain temple complex in India. Based on the mandala, this temple is a classic example of ancient Indian sacred geometry. Made of white marble, the entire temple is so intricately carved that is boarders on fantasy. Layer within layer of sculpted animals, flowers, and protective deities cascade down the walls and over the ceilings. The main temple, dedicated to the Jain Tirthankara (“revealer of truth”), Adinath, has 80 domes and 1444 carved pillars, every one of which is different and unique.

The immense city-fortress of Kumbhalgarh, stretching along a ridge eight miles long, is our next stop. Built in the 15th century, this fort is an outstanding example of the more austere Afghan architecture.

Day 4: Jodhpur

It is a short drive into Jodhpur and we will head directly to Mehrangarh Fort, probably the most spectacular fortified citadel in India. Its massive and impregnable walls seem to grow out of the hill upon which it was built. From the outside, It is militaristic architecture at its most imposing, but at the top of the ramparts, it gives way to whimsical cupolas, chattris, archways, and domes. And once inside, opulence and sensuality reign. Our guide will escort us through rooms furnished with the antiques and fabulous Rajasthani art which was collected by the Maharajas.

After we see the fort, you can walk around the alleys of the Sardar Bazaar which have sprung up around the clock tower in the center of town. Many different types of goods converge here, vegetable and fruits, spices, textiles, handicrafts, and mundane plastic kitchenware. Jodhpur is also one of my favorite shopping stops. There are plenty of “antique” stores out, just past the Umaid Bhawan hotel.

Day 5: Jaisalmer

The great Thar desert is part of the desert eco-system that begins in the Sahara and ends at the Gobi desert. We set off this morning across this barren and inhospitable land where only a few people manage a eke out a living. An occasional herd of goats, a tree every now and then, and a few peacocks or Great Indian Bustards are about all that we will see until, suddenly, the massive fortified city of Jaisalmer looms up on the horizon. This is one of the oldest cities in Rajasthan, founded in the 12 century by Rawal Jaisal of the Bhatti clan. (the suffix “mer” means an “outcropping of rocks”). An important caravansarai on the old silk route, this was a vitally important city in the 12th through 16th centuries. Hindu and Jain merchants grew very wealthy and constructed fairy tale temples and spectacular mansions called havelis. Built tall to collect every precious desert breeze, these homes are made of sandstone carved as if it were mere wood, and they have made Jaisalmer unique among Indian towns.

With careful planning, you might arrive here during the annual Jaisalmer Desert Festival and the town will be a riot of color and activity. This happens –usually – in January/February, but the date is changeable. The Rajputs do love their “melas”! Men in their most elaborate turbans and women weighed down with silver jewelry converge on the town from all over the region. This festival was designed for tourists and it is pretty commercial, but the local people have also adopted it as a venue for trading and as an excuse for a party

Day 6: Jaisalmer

Take the day to walk around this amazing city. The fort here is particularly interesting because is still inhabited by ordinary people going about their daily business in this magnificent setting. Potters are at work, merchants are dying cloth, and little children look after the cows, all set within the ramparts of this massive citadel. The exteriors of the old havelis are carved sandstone and you definitely should go into one or 2. In the evening, you may want to go for a short sunset camel ride out to the cenotaphs in the desert.

Day 7: Jaisalmer

A day in Jaisalmer to take a camel ride or do some more walking around.

Day 8: Drive to Khimsar via Osiyan

Set off back across the Thar desert towards Osiyan, a small town made famous by some of the oldest Jain temples in existence. Built in the 8th century, the enormous Mahavira temple is still thriving with activity. Throngs of people crowd in here every day to worship and priests conduct puja ceremonies.

By the time you get to Osiyan, the terrain has turned interesting again with thriving little villages and farms set among oasis. There will be wild peacock, Indian Gazelle and blackbuck which thrive amongst these preservation minded villagers. You should get to the Khimsar Fort Hotel in the early afternoon and have time to relax around the pool (too cold to swim!) or to explore this magnificent hotel. Just in case anyone wants another camel ride, they are available for hire here to take hotel guests into the villages around the fort. Dinner here is a treat. Tables, lit by candle light, are set up among the partially ruined ramparts and Rajasthani entertainers play music and dance while you eat.

Hotel – Khimsar Fort Hotel.

Day 9: Drive to Bikaner via Nagaur

After leaving Khimsar, you can make a brief stop at the 14th century Nagaur Fort. This fort was badly damaged and is being restored by the Getty Foundation. They’ve done it just right – it still retains the ghostly power that one does not feel in the more visited forts. Only pigeons and parakeets are on hand to break the silence as you marvel over the delicate Persian style paintings and inspect the rooms where the Emperor Akbar once stayed.

Further down the road towards Bikaner, you can stop at what is probably the most unusual temple in India, the Deshnoke Temple, where rats are revered and honored. Entry is entirely at your own discretion! Actually, it’s not as creepy as it sounds. The rats (kind of “pet quality”) thoughtfully stay pretty much inside the sanctuary where they are fed and rarely make a run for your feet.

Check into your hotel then visit this city’s claim to fame, the only camel breeding farm in Asia. Most of India’s 11/2 million camels have come from breeds developed here, and there are usually several hundred of these “ships of the desert” on hand. Bikaner supports the Indian Army’s Camel Corps, a very unusual division which is now mostly ceremonial. This should be done in the afternoon when the camels are being brought back in to the stables.

Hotels: Bhanwar Niwas

Day 10: Mandawa

Start off the morning with a visit to the Bikaner Junagadh Fort. Not as massive or imposing as the other forts you might have visited it is, nevertheless, is worthwhile visiting because it has some of the best preserved decorative art in Rajasthan. It also has an excellent museum and a sandalwood throne, believed to be the oldest extant piece of furniture in India. Entry is through the Daulat Pol, past rows of handprints on the walls, a tragic epithet to the women who became sati, immolated upon their husband’s funeral pyres.

It is an easy drive to Mandawa through the region in Rajasthan known as Shekhavati. You can stop in towns like Fatehpur, where the enchanting folk art tradition of house painting reached its apogee. Elephants, camels and mythological creatures march across the fronts of the whitewashed havelis. These battle scenes, dancing girls and tiger hunts were lovingly painted by the wealthy Marwari merchants who once treasured these houses. Sadly however, this is a dying art. Many of these havelis are crumbling away and their murals fading as the merchants move to the big cities in search of business.

Hotel – Mandawa Castle Hotel

The delightful walled village of Samode is medieval India at its best. Set away from the main road, it is totally untouched by the hullabaloo (did you know this is an Indian word?) that characterizes most Indian towns. Old stone houses, an ancient deserted hilltop fort and huge trees make this one of the most peaceful and enchanting settings in Rajasthan. Samode also carries some kind of magical photographic charm. Many India travelers report that their best pictures come form this little place. Take the afternoon to explore the town on our own or just relax around our amazing hotel. This is a great place for a short and atmospheric camel ride which can be booked at the hotel

Hotel – Samode Palace Hotel

Day 12 – Drive to Jaipur

Depart Samode in the morning for the 45 minute ride to Jaipur. When you arrive, set out for the Amber Palace, the first capital of the Kuchwaha clan of Rajputs who began building in this area in about 1040 AD. The Amber Fort was begun in about 1600 and then abandoned in 1727 when Jai Singh moved the capital to Jaipur. Access to the fort is by traditional Maharaja style transport, sitting atop brightly painted and caparisoned elephants who lumber up the massive ramparts and through the enormous gates. This fort is very “touristy”, but fortunately many of the tourists that you meet are Indian who afford us a wonderful opportunity to see history through their eyes.

The Hawa Mahal, the “Palace of the Winds”, is one of India’s most notable and most photographed sights. From the street, it looks like just another beautiful palace, but from the side, we find that it is just a facade where the women of the harem could sit to watch the life go by on the street. Make a short stop at the City Palace to see the four very famous painted doorways leading out to the main courtyard.

Hotels – Raj Palace

Day 13 – Drive to Agra via Fahtepur Sikri

Depart Jaipur early and drive towards Agra, but along the way, there will be a stop at Fatehpur Sikri, the haunting red sandstone city built by the Mogul emperor Akbar in 1569 to house some 200,000 people. Intended to be his new imperial capital, this regal ghost town is an exquisitely preserved example of the best of princely opulence. Palaces, mosques, huge bathing pools, and stables for his 30,000 horses were built out of carved red sandstone, used for thirteen years and then abandoned when the court moved back to Agra.

Sunset is one of the best times to visit the Taj Mahal, that prize of Indian architecture that defies the imagination and leaves one speechless in the face of its tremendous size and beauty. Twenty thousand men labored around the clock for 20 years to create this monument to Shah Jahan’s greatest love, his wife Mumtaz Mahal. It is a virtual showcase of his passions for architecture, jewels, and poetry. The entire surface of this white marble fantasy, inside and out, is either carved or inlayed with semi-precious stones. We will have plenty of time to wander around this huge garden and tomb complex before returning to our hotel.

Hotels – Believe it not, there are no heritage hotels in Agra. If you want opulent, newly built to look old, check out the Oberoi.

Day 14 – Agra

After breakfast, cross the Yamuna River to visit the tomb of Itmad-ud-Doulah. This exquisite little gem, sometimes called “The Baby Taj”, was built ten years before the Taj Mahal and incorporates many of the same Persian design elements such as the pietra dura style of inlay seen here in flowing arabesque designs. Islamic art revels in the creation of pattern, and nowhere is this more evident. Pentacles, hexagons, stars, and flowers collide with mathematical precision all over the face of this marvelous structure.

Also on the west bank of the river, is the Ram Bagh, the oldest existing Persian style Charbagh (a garden divided by a four course waterway) in India. Built by the first Mogul Emperor, Babur in about 1530, it was, as all Persian gardens are, intended to be a reflection of God and a symbol of paradise. It is now badly ruined, but the elements of this important Islamic tradition can still be traced.

Definitely take the time to explore the enormous Agra Red Fort, seat of the government during the reigns of Akbar, Jahangir, and Shah Jahan. Literally a city within a city, its size and ostentation was intended to affirm the power and glory of the great Mogul empire. Shah Jahan died here, a prisoner of his son, and we can visit his quarters where he spent his last years gazing wistfully out at the tomb of his beloved Mumtaz Mahal.

Day 15 – Varanasi

The morning will be free in Agra, perhaps to return to the Taj Mahal for sunrise. There is an early afternoon flight to Varanasi. If you do not have a car and driver already set up, contact your hotel to pick you up at the airport. Finding your own way to the hotels by the river is really challenging. Take the evening to have a walk around the old city where thousands of pilgrims gather in this most sacred Hindu city. In the evening, there is an aarthi ceremony beside the Ganges. It’s a “new tradition” but it’s very nicely done.

Day 16 – Varanasi

Legend says that Varanasi is the oldest of all cities and that may not be far from wrong. Archeologists place its founding at about 4000 years ago when it was known as Kashi, the “City of Light”. Since the dawning of recorded history, throngs of Hindu devotees have come here to purify their souls in the holy waters of the Ganges river and gain release from Samsara, the endless cycle of birth, death, and re-birth. At sunrise, you board boats to float quietly past this ancient and sacred ritual which takes place every morning along the stone steps called “ghats”. It is believed that the Lord Shiva once lived in Varanasi, and this city is dedicated to him. Walk through the crowded cobblestone alleyways, known as “galis”, filled with pilgrims and saddhus, and check out a few of the beautiful temples built in his honor.

Varanasi was already an ancient center of religious learning during the Buddha’s lifetime, and in 528 BC, he came here to preach his first sermon. Visit the Deer Park at Sarnath where he gave this teaching, now known as “The Turning of the Wheel of the Law”. The excavated ruins here include several stupas set in a peaceful and tranquil garden, and the museum has perfectly preserved examples of sculptures from this site as well as the Ashokan lion capital which is now the national symbol of India.

Day 17 – Return to Delhi

Take the morning to finish up some sightseeing, There are, roughly, 2000 more temples and a hundred more ghats in this city which you may have not had time to visit in the previous days. Perhaps you would like to make arrangements for a yoga or meditation session given by one of the local resident gurus. There is a mid-afternoon flight back to Delhi.

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